What do Rhode Island, Mark Twain and Harriet Beecher Stowe have in common?
Rhode Island, the 13th state and the smallest by area, is known for Newport mansions, sailing and seafood. I found it more than interesting in today’s political climate that it was founded by Roger Williams, a radical ostracized from Boston, who made Rhode Island a state celebrating segregation of religion and state. It became a haven for Jews, Quakers, Baptists, Quakers and other religious minorities.
We didn’t spend much time, and never made it to the magnificent mansions. We did check out Wickford Village, one of the best collection of 18th century homes in New England, and Smith’s Castle. Smith’s Castle, you may be surprised to learn, is not a castle. Who knew? It is considered the oldest house in Rhode Island, and , naturally closed the day we visited. The setting and garden are stunning, and we enjoyed the complete privacy before heading to our next stop, Hartford CT.
Connecticut is a slow starter on fall colors, but the seasonal color is not nearly as important as the history and social justice questions in today’s world. Larry was our phenomenal guide at Mark Twain’s home/museum. I know that he must be an actor as well as a historical buff, because they way he shared the secrets of the house and family were as if were in the house with them. His final goodbye to us was a moving soliloquy of Twain’s own words about this family home of 17 years. So much love, so much creativity and literary production, and ultimately so much sadness. His daughter’s death in the home, while he and his wife were in Europe, ensured that he would never live there again. Thank goodness the house is here for us!
It is more than a coincidence that his house was right next door to Harriet Beecher Stowe. Not only did her brother marry him and his wife, but Samuel Clemons was an outspoken critic of imperialism and racial and gender inequities. In fact, he was far more a supporter of women’s rights than Harriet herself.
The Harriet Beecher Stowe center is, on the one hand, a much better preserved house, with almost 90% of the furniture and art original to the home, and on the other hand, not about that at all. The center is focused on social justice, or rather injustice, and encourages the visitors to engage in meaningful dialogue about the “intent and impact” of Uncle Tom’s Cabin, and the issues of today. The young woman leading the tour holds a BA in history and an MA in Public history. What a delight to spend an hour discussing the legacy of Uncle Tom, including Martin Luther King and Malcolm X, Kenya and Snoop Dog.
You may not be able to visit the center in Hartford, but if you can, I would not miss it. The positive power of young people passionately engaged in the quest for true equality and equity is a light in current times, and in our future.
